Side note: http://www.ted.com/talks/jk_rowling_the_fringe_benefits_of_failure.htmlthis is an incredible commencement speech by JK Rowling that my program's director emailed me today.
But on to the main event:
The previous post mentioned the orientation days of the program and this one aims to cover the nights (or what I remember of them) and get me caught up on everything so that posts can become more regular and present.
Day 1: After orientation and dinner, the trinity students and me as a tag along were in search of a bar. Despite the fact that we were all jet lagged, me especially even though it was my second night (hey, 12 hours of flying is much different then 6), our urge for a party was insatiable. We ended up at a bar called On The Rox; SO American. They had student discounts, menus were written in english and a couple of the bartenders were actually from America, one from Los Angeles who had dropped out of school during his study abroad and hasn't left (ideas...). Everybody was still kinda meeting each other and the entire bar (all 20 of us) turned into a celebratory welcome to Rome shots. Presents of whiskey, jager, tequila (i sucked it up and drank it, I despise tequila with my whole heart), gin and vodka were passed around generously. After many conversations, shots, beers, and glasses of wine we staggered through the cobblestone streets of Testaccio up to the Hotel on the Aventino for a nice sleep (pass out).
Day 2: Hung over we embarked on the previously mentioned walking tour until dinner where we went to Rino's for dinner where we were served Amatraciana pasta followed by a contorno plate of salad and french fries. The dessert a cake was very strange, moist, and succulent. The flavors of my chocolate cake were on par, but the wetness was strange and made it difficult to eat. The other choice a lemon cake of some sort must have been soaked in brandy; it was not to my liking. The went on with a visit to pizza shop where we bought a few bottles of wine (the grocery store, liquor store, andtabacchi or tobacco shop were all closed) which we illegally drank in a friend's hotel room. I brought a wine pull over here for that reason, but it proved ALMOST useless. It was not a traditional wine screw, but one that you screwed in and then pulled straight up. I pilfered it from a hotel room and its quality reflected it. The bottle that I purchased, made from sangiovese grapes, was the most impossible to open. The cork was tough and it took a staggering (not exaggerating) 30 minutes to open. Pulling with all my might... the cork didn't budge. Pulling the bottle while someone pulled the cork pull with all my might...no dice. Working it back and forth, rocking it from side to side for 20 minutes...it moved 3 millimeters. After those 20 minutes a firm tug from a football player while i held the bottle with white knuckled fingers and it was finally free,basta! No bottle has ever tasted better (solely because I have never put so much work into one). Following the rebel drinking party in the room, we again ventured out into this expansive city and returned to On The Rox. Again with the "When in Rome" shots and public drunkeness that stereotypes americans. We tried to go to a club called Coyote, but it was jam packed and was not worth it. Instead, we settled for drunk pizza (thee delicious types, pizza bianca, rosa, and patate) and headed home for a good night sleep.
Day 3: Walking tour and 4 advil later, our night again resumed with drinks at On the Rox (our pregame spot for the night) and the 3rd day of the drinking binge continued. The side effects of activities of this sort are a cold (which I am now recovering from, chronic tiredness, and just an overall feeling of shit). We then left our new stomping ground up to Campo De Fiori, a very famous square known for its street market by day and its American bar scene by night. The bar named the Drunken Ship gave me the feeling that I was back in Eagle Rock (except for paying in euros and the occasional 40 year old Italian there to prey on the American women). The night involved beer pong (italians are very lousy at this), shots, and 20 minute lines for the bathroom. From there we began our walk of the Piazza in search of a taxi to take us home with many Italians following us. I was stopped by a few who asked for a picture; I thought at first that they were pick pockets and kept walking since I have a particular connection to my money and don't like it disappearing into strangers pockets. They however believed I was Tom Cruise and only wanted a picture to brag about with their friends. I relented only after saying that the movie business was tough and that everyone wants a piece of me but for them I would do something special (I gotta enjoy my new apparent stardom in some way). I took a few and signed one guys shirt with my name, not as Tom Cruise (I'm sure that was confusing in the morning). The night ended with a stop for a panini and then back into the wonderland of the hotel and landing on the plush soft twin-ish size bed in my room.
Day 4: No hang over but walking tour later, we went to dinner at l'Insalata Ricca a restaurant where our coupons can be used and sat around eating and drinking our hearts merry. For 11 people, 10 of who were drinking, we polished off 9 liters of the house red. To say the least most were drunk (I had not had much due to the 3 day binge, I was starting to feel the onset of a cold). After a 4 games of never have I ever, a great way to get to know people or pass judgements on people, we left and returned to the watering hole known as On the Rox. The bar was packed, a pub crawl group was there which consisted of about 130 people filling the place to the brim. We were looking for a club, but someone (these guys aren't too adventurous), ended up at the same place. With the now customary shots going round, we were all in the mood to dance and decided that On The Rox's hallway was our stage. Guys and girls alike, we cut up the rug having a great time messing around and getting down. Hours later we were desperate for sleep (since we were all zombies) and i fell asleep before I turned off the lights.
Day 5: Tuesday was my first day of real classes and being as tired as I was didn't help out with the boring lectures. I made it through and that afternoon, I went with Francesco, a staff member, to the phone store to buy school supplies and a local phone. He was very informative and helpful and made the process of buying a phone very seamless. Accompanying us was another insegnante or teacher and her grandson. She teaches my Exploring Rome: Books, Movies and You class (I get to watch Gladiator and then go to the Colosseo and hopefully if we are lucky under it as well); her grandson just gets to hang out and is taking an italian language class (I wish I could have done that as a kid). After getting a phone, 3342364900; calling code 01139 if any of you would like to call me from the US, Francesco took us to his favorite coffee shop where he treated me to a Latte Macchiato or Stained Milk. For a person that has never drank or enjoyed even a sip of coffee (besides ice cream) this is the drink for you. I enjoyed it tremendously; it came in a glass similar to a double shot glass with a small spoon and some sugar. It was beige, almost grey in color, and tasted not of milk or coffee but a foam that carried hints of both.
Next stop, and my favorite, was at Volpetti; a food emporium that offers a vast array of cheeses, cured meats, fresh pastas, and pizzas.
Our food coupons also work here and I will most likely spend many euros here as well as coupons. One of the workers, presumably a butcher, grabbed 4 cheeses for us to try, a Pecorino di Fossa a ewe's milk cheese from Tuscany that is aged underground in rock grottoes was my favorite. It is a hard cheese with peppery taste and a tangy finish. I also enjoyed the other hard cheese of which I have forgotten the name but wen great paired with the sweet wine that was also supplied by the house. The gorgonzola flavored with red wine grapes was a little sour for me while the burrata was delectable but with a unique texture. I then order an etto of prosciutto cotto meaning cooked proscuitto, typically the type you find in the states, hand carved off a giant pork leg that was pulled down from the ceiling, hoof still attached. Next was the prosciutto crudo, served raw, tasted very ham like with a more succulent texture. I preferred the cotto but maybe that was just because I am more accustomed to it. In any event I bought an etto of two of the cheeses, an etto of cotto and an etto of crudo,along with a loaf of unsalted bread (a roman tradition, which is very dense and tastes stale from the minute its pulled out of the oven) for further research. No partying to report, the night was full of homework and card games which was a nice change from the previous 4.
Day 6: Yesterday began with a walking tour for a class I hoped to join called Ancient Art of Rome. We were to meet this professor in the subway station at Garbatella, 2 stops south. There I introduced myself to the professor where he told me I could join if I was up to his abuse. He is a very eccentric man from Belgium that lectures with his eyes closed and pauses at inopportune times. Despite his idiosyncrasies he is very informative and introduced us to the Museo Martemartini, a member of the Capitoline museums and home to Rome's first electric power plant. We learned about sculptures carved from volcanic rock, the influence of Greek Hellenistic style, and art in the private sphere. I wish I could share some pictures but mysteriously, my camera decided to delete 40 pictures while loading onto my computer (even though I have pictures from before that trip and after it on the same day). In any event, the trip was enlightening and I am glad that I switched to that course. I was bored with the economics courses I was in and in the spirit of When in Rome, I should use this city to its full potential.
Wednesday night is a fairly big party night and I planned on going out with everyone, but my plans were abruptly changed when I went to get ready. I was waiting for a friend to knock on my door to tell me that we were leaving to go to dinner and decided to lie in bed to pass the time. The knock never came, and I fell asleep at about 9:30. Next thing I knew and 12 hours later, my alarm clock was ringing and it was time to finish my homework and prepare for class. It was a comforting relief not to drink for two nights and the rest was rejuvenating.
Day 7: Today, after coming of my much needed sleep, I finished my homework in the morning and wrote two cover letters for the two internships in restaurants that I am trying to get. Classes this afternoon were not too bad and the Exploring and Visiting Rome class was the highlight. We watched an hour from both Roman holiday (Audrey Hepburn is stunningly gorgeous) and Three Coins in the Fountain. This class is really cool because we get to read about or watch movies about places in Rome and then get to visit and experience them on our own. After class I got some good news, I had been talking to Francesco about playing water polo over here with a club team (since they are so good and I miss the sport terribly), Francesco had talked with a friend of his who plays with masters team. I will be going to play with this masters team and Francesco's friend sometime next week where I will essentially be trying out to see if I am good enough to play with a club team or just play with the veterans (God how this makes me wish I had played last season or at least over break, but it will be a great time either way). I can't wait for it and dread it at the same time, but I hope that it will become a once or twice a week regular thing.
This post is extremely long and many of the events are blended together; trust me that is how this past week has felt. It has been a great time so far, full of great new friends, lots of alcohol (too much), little sleep, and exciting adventures. I hope to post a little more frequently and only haven't because I wanted to get this one out first. Tomorrow I have two classes of italian and then the weekend!!! We will see where that leads, hopefully some dancing at some clubs, a day trip out of the city ( I think my new plan is going to be getting on a subway and going a few stops and checking out the area each day for some pictures and getting to know the area), I think I am also going to the Vatican, but we shall see.
Ciao
- Josh
P.S. I don't know if there is a way, but I would love some feedback or comments about any of the posts or suggestions of where to go. Don't hesitate to leave them on here (again if that's possible) or email me, jkantor@oxy.edu.
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