The last few days have been hectic (I feel like every week is now) but have been very fun.  On sunday, a few of us went to hunt out an american style breakfast.  Of course it was terrible, of course I knew better, but someone in the hazy morning hours my reasoning had deserted me.  It was however in Campo Di Fiori; a place I had not seen yet, in the daylight.  The square was packed with italians, a shock since you can only hear english between the hours of 23:00 - 2:00.  There was however no market because it was sunday.  There were many bambinidressed in costumes like spiderman, lions, tellatubbies and I wish I had my camera to take a few pictures of them.  On our walk back, I stopped in to get a slice of pizza (since I was hungry after my french toast then I was before it).  The pizza could have been warmer, was a little too expensive (tourist area) and ended up all over my sweatshirt (Mom is it ok if I ship laundry home? It’s about that time…)  As we walked along the tiber river right by the Jewish Synagogue, I was presented with my first culture shock.  Everywhere we have walked, there has been dog crap scattered everywhere on the side walks.  Well on this sunny sunday late morning, a man chose to contribute his own excrement to the never ending trails of shit.  Right in the middle of the street, hand on one car, and in full squat, the man decided that this might be a good place to go to the bathroom.  In shock and disgusted, we quickly darted across the street with our violated minds.  Like ok, I understand some people are homeless and you gotta do what you gotta do, but couldn’t he have picked a side street? Maybe a little less frequented road, but I guess he deemed this location appropriate.

Anyways, right as we got back to the hotel, another group of friends were heading out for lunch up by the Spanish Steps, and I thought I would tag along.  For this, I grabbed my camera and the trek began, past the Campididoglio, Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II, Piazza Venezia, down Via Del Corso, up Via Condotti and arrived at Piazza di Spagna and Trinita dei Monti.  This has now become the area I am most familiar with (apart from the Aventino) and I will start to explore another area soon.  I had just ate and only had a straciatella gelato and took some pictures (after the break).  Finally we got back around 3:30 and it was time to do homework and nap (the super bowl was still ahead).  For dinner we went to a pizzeria in Testaccio where I had a croqueta and a diavolo pizza.  The croqueta, a mashed potato ball dipped in an egg wash, rolled in bread crumbs, and then deep fried, was pretty good.  I had made them about month before I had left and was not happy with how they came out, but this one tasted almost identical to mine, so who knows.  The pizza was great; Diavolo, devil’s pizza or pizza for the devil, is used to describe the hot and spicy italian salami that tops the pizza.  It’s dark red almost maroon color looked more intimidating than it was, but still packed a spicy kick.  After dinner, we ventured to our all to familiar bar of On the Rox where we had a reserved table so that we could watch the Colts and Saints.  We ordered a beer tower since we had so many people which helped pass the 3 hours we had until kick off.

At kick off, during Carrie Underwood’s performance, all us americans were standing belting out the national anthem at the top of our lungs enjoying our patriotism.  Someone, hopefully italian or else this person isn’t a true american, decided that this was a good time to jack our freshly purchased pitcher of beer.  Needless to say we were not happy and shook our heads sternly at our neighbors.  It was a great game and we were all entertained.  The only thing wrong was that we didn’t get any commercials! When it cut to a break, ESPN America would give updates on other sports and such, leaving us without the best part of the whole game.  It would have also been nice to have some american bar food (our nachos were chips with tomato sauce on them) but I am not really in the right place to be complaining about food (nor am I, just more apart of the tradition).

Monday was a relaxing day full of 3 classes, homework and a lecture. For our internship seminar we had to read a chapter from the book As the Roman’s Do by Alan Epstein (I recommend it highly) because he came to speak to us.  He is an american writer but chose to move his family from the Bay Area to Rome 15 years ago.  They have raised their 2 kids here and now call this place home.  He had many insights to offer and I loved how he thought and approached life, traveling, going out of the comfort zone, and culture.  His wife is a photographer who uses Rome as her subject and together they offer tours of Rome through food and many other venues.  Their website, astheromansdo.com, is worth checking out; they are very knowledgeable and offer a unique perspective for Americans.

Tuesday morning I had an hour or so free, I decided to go to the Testaccio Market for a little breakfast and short excursion.  The pictures below are from that trip and show most of what I saw.  If you look closely to the fish stand one, you can see a the man in the back cleaning trota, trout, to order for the man, front right (it doesn’t get fresher than that).  The array of produce was phenominal, as was the variety of meats, and cheeses.  There were many stands selling different things, but for the most part offered similar goods.  I picked up a couple different times of rolls, some salami di Milano, Pesto di Genoa and enjoyed a light breakfast.  I wish I could have stayed longer, but I had an interview at a restaurant, Ristorante Da Luigi, where I would be observing the preperation of dishes, the running of a business (from a business perspective), and waiting tables.  It is a great opportunity and I like the idea of doing it from a business angle, but I would prefer to cook while I am here.  I feel that I can learn restaurant management in other places, but only italian cuisine in the kitchen in italy.  The interview went well, the guy was slightly intimidating because he spoke very little english.  He spoke to our teacher / mentor, Francesco, who translated to me, who I would speak to, where he would translate it back to the owner.  It went well and I was pleased with my answers.  After that I returned to school for a class and then we went to Rino’s for our weekly dinner.  Some people planned on going out (I wasn’t planning on it) and I got dragged into going for an hour.  I milked a beer for that hour and came home early (1:15) to rest up.

Today has been an eventful day.  I was supposed to go on a 3 hour walking tour for Ancient Art of Rome to the Forum, but due to heavy rain it was cancelled.  Instead, our professor decided that we needed to have a three hour lecture where he does’t stop talking.  I wrote 25 pages which only cost me about 3 fingers and a pen (my hand still hurts).  After his filibuster, we had lunch, where I did my italian homework and ate very well.  After italian, I had another interview at Trattoria Le Fate.

Le Fate, the Fairies, is a family (one guy) run restaurant in Trastevere.  The chef is 32 has a mba in business, worked (outside of Italy) in SF, New Jersey, New York, and Australia.  He originally had little intention to work as a chef and worked for a large corporation in Italy.  He ended up working his 9-5er and then went to his dad’s restaurant cooking all night.  It eventually became too much, and he chose the life of a chef.  He works in the back with one dishwasher who occasionally helps him out and does the rest himself.  It is around a 40 seat restaurant!  Not to mention, in the mornings he goes to the market (he doesn’t buy any food outside of Rome, or any wine outside of Lazio) and teaches cooking classes.  His schedule is 10 - 4 cooking classes (either at the restaurant or at other study abroad programs that offer cooking classes) 4-8 prep (preparing ingredients, antipasti, and whatever he can get ready before service, again alone!), 8 pm - 1 am service (alone with the occasional help of 1 man, says I can cook for 40 alone and keep tables moving at the right pace); 7 days a week.  I was very impressed.  I also like his use of business acumen; I think this is the perfect fit because I can do both cooking and business.  He said he would like to hire all of us and that we will work out a schedule and hopefully start next week.  I would be going about 4 - 8 or 3-7 so he could teach me the fundamentals and preparations until I gained more experience and learned the recepies.  I’m already excited about it.  Hopefully I can get in there Monday or Tuesday (waiting on work insurance).

The rest of the day could not be topped by my very enthusiastic interview.  For dinner I went to Volpetti’s where one of the butchers gave me a cheese testing.  I first had Salame di Suino Cinto Toscano; it was very mild and didn’t have much distinct flavor.  I was then given a piece of Robioladi Roccaverano D.O.P.; it is a soft, creamy, and almost buttery goat (capra) cheese from Piedmonte (in the north).  Following this I got to taste another cheese from the same region; Robiola Al Tre Latti, it was a mix of 3 milks: mucca (cow), pecora (sheep), e capra (goat).  It was very smooth, but very rich; after two bites, I had had enough.  Sticking with the 3 milk blend, I tested a cheese from region in south north, Lombardia (I forgot to write down the name).  It was a harder cheese, very mild in flavor; I preferred it to the other 3 milk cheese.  I finished with a pecorino formaggio from Sardina: something Sardo.  Made from sheep’s milk and aged for 3 years, it was delicious with a flakey texture and sharp bite common to pecorino.

For dinner I had a panino (panini is plural) on pizza bianca with prosciutto cotta, mozzarella di bufalo, pomodori (sun dried), and pesto.  It was a decent combination, but I would have preferred it to be grilled rather than just warmed.  I also indulged with a suppli which tends to mean many things, but this was a piece of mozzarella covered in tomato risotto, rolled in bread crumbs and fried (a fancy mozzarella stick).  All for a reasonable 11,40 euros.  I only could eat half my sandwich and am saving the other for a mid morning snack.

Next was a few games of cards, a little homework, and now bed.